by admin | Jun 15, 2019 | Walking
The walk between mainland England’s most southerly point, Lizard Point (aka Polpeor), to the turquoise waters and towering islands of Kynance Cove is a must for anyone staying in the area. An easy 2-mile amble along the South West Coast Path, the walk’s gentle gradients and moderate climbs afford some of the country’s most spectacular views.
To start your walk, you can leave your car on the village green or National Trust lighthouse car park and make your way to the Lizard Point. Here, two popular cafes await for a pre-walk ice cream or belly-warming coffee, a nutritional must for any avid walker.
Sufficiently fuelled, from the Lizard Point you turn west (right as you look out to sea) and make your way towards your first destination, Pistol Cove. Crossing a little footbridge, arriving at this picturesque little spot dotted with wildflowers may seem innocuous enough, but you are in fact entering what is believed to be the site of a mass burial.
In this very cove on 25th November 1720, following a fatal run in with submerged rocks out at sea, a military ship called the Royal Anne suffered massive damage and was sucked beneath the churning waves. Tragically, over 200 of the men on board died and, as their bodies washed ashore, locals carried them into Pistol meadow where they would finally lay to rest.
Although the burial hasn’t been confirmed, attempted excavations have been consistently halted as a mark of respect for the sailors. However, while the tale of the Royal Anne is a tragic one, it is by no means unique. All around the Lizard Peninsula’s coast, tales of raging storms and treacherous rocks abound, with over 500 shipwrecks documented and certainly many more unaccounted for.
Leaving Pistol Cove behind, the South West Coast Path makes its way uphill. From here, following the gradual slope of the path you will come to the Old Lizard Head and then onto verdant pastures high above the waves. Looking ahead, the Rill, a craggy headland from where the Spanish Armada were first sighted in July 1588, stick outs like a bony finger into sea. Beyond this, you can just make out Land’s End Peninsula on a clear day.
Following the footpath of trodden grass, the walk continues west and dips into Caerthillian Cove. A lush valley interwoven by two streams, Caerthillian’s green fields roll down to meet the grey and brown hues of exposed earth and rock, before disappearing under a cobalt blanket. At low-tide, rocky platforms protrude from the soft sand, veined with water-worn channels and sheathed in iridescent seaweed.
Once you can tear yourself away from belly of the valley, the path steeply rises and leads you up onto the clifftops once again. Reaching the top, you are immediately rewarded with beautiful panoramic views centred around the iconic Lion Rock. Arguably resembling an enormous squatting frog, Lion Rock bursts from the sea in all 150ft of glory; a true sight to behold and the perfect opportunity to snap a shot for the photo album.
Continuing on, the cliffs skirt Pentreath Beach, 200ft below. Known by some as Boiler Bay, the sea here recedes at low tide to reveal the remains of a large cylindrical ship’s boiler. The boiler, jutting out from the sand, is all that is left of the Maud, a trawler that was being towed from Fleetwood to Hull in February 1912. Sailing into monstrous swells, the Maud was never able to complete its journey and had to be cut loose, sinking to the seabed instead.
Beyond Pentreath, the terrain gently plateaus and gives way to the tufty thickets of the downs. Bony arms of coconut-scented, sunshine-yellow gorse reach out into the track and little birds flitter out of view. Looking left, the views seem to open up and you can really begin to appreciate the sheer scale of the ocean below, as beautiful as it is immense. Now is a good time to slow your pace and savour the last few moments of the walk; you have nearly arrived.
Rounding the next corner, beyond the figure of Lion Rock, the awe-inspiring outlines of Gull Rock and Asparagus Island appear, standing proud amongst turquoise waters. One of the most famous beach scenes in the world, Kynance Cove has become globally recognised for its mesmerizingly clear waters and soaring granite islands topped with vibrant green grass. The fitting end to an unforgettable walk, Kynance Cove is a true paradise and somewhere you’ll be talking about around the dinner table for years to come.
by admin | Jun 15, 2019 | Out & About
The leafy greens and knotted trees of the luscious Poltesco Valley provide a soft yet striking contrast to the Lizard’s wild and rugged coastline. Ducking into this paradisaical valley, where dappled sunlight pours through the emerald canopy and a gurgling stream runs towards the sea, it’s not hard to be swept away by its magnetic appeal.
Heading along the South West Coast Path, it may be easy to overlook Poltesco, which emerging from the trees joins with Carleon Cove. But it is absolutely worth an explore as within its luscious core rests an intriguing throwback to the valley’s history. Slowly being taken over by nature under the watchful eye of the National Trust, Poltesco Valley and Carleon Cove are home to the remains of 17th century pilchard cellars and a 19th century serpentine factory.
A booming industry from the mid-18th to late 19th century, pilchard fishing played a hugely important part in the county’s economy. Often involving the efforts of whole communities, men and women alike would rally together in an effort to bring in as many fish as possible, when huge schools of pilchards would grace the waters around the end of September. From boat builders to net makers to fishermen to salters, everyone had a part to play.
Heavily involved, Carleon Cove was the site of a large fishery between the 16th and 19th centuries. Pushing out from the shore, boats would row out under the direction of a ‘huer’ on top of the cliffs and would snare hundreds upon hundreds of fish in their nets, scooping them out into baskets. Upon return with their fishy haul, the fishermen would proceed to sort their catch in the fish cellars’ square courtyard, salting the fish ready for export and using the valuable oil for lighting lamps.
As the years rolled on, Carleon Cove’s fishing industry began to break down, and was all but abandoned in Cornwall by the 1880’s. To this day, all that remains of the cellars in the cove is a round, roofless building that once housed the capstan for hauling fishing boats up the shelving beach. Far from finished though, Poltesco Valley was just about to enter its next most exciting chapter.
Repurposing many of the buildings that were used by the fisheries, the Lizard Serpentine Company built a factory in the cove in 1855. While the first written evidence of serpentine being worked dates from 1828, it wasn’t until 1846, when Prince Albert toured the serpentine works in Penzance that the demand for serpentine really kicked off. Following a display of serpentine products in the Great Exhibition of 1851, the craze began.
Making use of the Lizard’s bountiful supply of the otherwise rare rock, the Lizard Serpentine Company cut and polished the stone to achieve great effect. Showcasing the beautiful and unusual reds, greens and greys endemic to the Lizard stone, serpentine was worked into trinkets, ornaments and even structural pieces creating unique, aesthetic products. Following their success, a showroom, warehouse and offices were later opened in Carleon Cove, as well as a showroom on the Strand in London which featured a 2.3m serpentine vase.
Sourcing serpentine from local quarries, the Lizard Serpentine Company would craft their magic before transporting finished items in flat-bottomed barges to offshore schooners. Initially using a waterwheel before changing to a steam engine, the remains of the factory’s chimney stand proud in the cove today, alongside the forge walls, old workshops and wheel pit. The keen eyed among you will even be able to spot the initials LSC carved into one of the buildings!
Falling foul of the fickle nature of trends as well as the unpredictable and ruthless nature of the sea, the Lizard Serpentine Company faced heightening economical strain from increasing transportation costs, diminishing resources, uninsured losses at sea and competition from the cheaper, increasingly more popular marble stone. As well as this, serpentine proved not particularly durable in urban air, susceptible to cracking and erosion. Eventually, the factory wound up in 1870, and after briefly relaunching as the Poltesco Marble Company, closed for good in 1893.
These days, Poltesco Valley and Carleon Cove offer a veritable time capsule, unpretentious beauty and somewhere wonderful for exploring, reflecting and simply sitting and admiring the views.
by admin | Jun 15, 2019 | Eating OUt
Firmly stamped on the culinary map, Cornwall has become a mecca for food-lovers. Home to a new wave of chefs making use of the abundance of fresh, local produce and foodies scouring out the most tantalising textures and flavours, things have never tasted so good.
Located at the most southerly tip of the country, the Lizard village is well and truly part of the phenomenon and home to some fantastic cafés and restaurants. So you don’t miss out on a mouthful of goodness, here are eight places to eat in the Lizard during your stay, all within walking distance of Penmenner B&B.
Coast Coffee Bar and Bistro
A superb family-run restaurant, Coast Coffee Bar and Bistro serves up a varied menu throughout the day. With an emphasis on local cuisine and gastro-pub flare, the dishes here are lovingly and intricately pieced together to create mouth-watering masterpieces.
The Top House
Situated in the heart of the village, the Top House is a traditional Cornish pub boasting plenty of character. Play a game of pool, find a cosy corner to snuggle up in or take a seat by the roaring fire, before browsing the menu for belly-warming pub grub and smile-inducing drinks.
The Witchball
The Witchball pub is steeped in history, with part of the building dating as far back as the 1400’s. Head in through the front door and immediately be won over by the stooped ceilings, exposed beams and beguiling charm. With an excellent beer garden, al fresco dining in summer is particularly lovely here.
Wavecrest Café
A fairly new addition to the village, the stunning Wavecrest Café is located down at Polpeor, the country’s most southerly point. A 10 to 15-minute walk from the Lizard village, Wavecrest serves meals crafted with seasonal, locally sourced goodies and a backdrop of uninterrupted sea views.
Polpeor Café
One of the most dramatic venues to take in views of the sea and sky throughout the year, Polpeor Café is a real gem. With a varied yet uncomplicated menu of delicious meals and home-baked treats, it is as jaw-dropping in summer as it is in winter. Take a seat outside and gaze out at the infinite expanse of blue, with playful seals playing in the shallows below.
The Regent Café
What was once, the Regent café, has now become Chimichangas, a colourful Tex Mex and authentic Latin street food restaurant, found on the village green. With regular music during the summer months, it has become a popular place to eat.
Smugglers Fish and Chips
Sometimes, nothing quite hits the spot like vinegar-splashed and salt-sprinkled fish and chips. Offering up all the classics along with the special catch of the day, Smugglers Fish and Chip Shop is located in the village and offers feel-good food to take away.
Ann’s Pasties
Head to Ann’s Pasties in the Lizard for a classic steak pasty or a delectable twist on traditional favourites. A family-run business, Ann’s Pasties have been filling tummies and warming hearts for years and are a must try!
